Gilbert's Most Trusted Garage Door Service

The most common and obvious sign is a loud "snap," "bang," or "popping" noise coming from your garage. This is the sound of the high-tension steel spring breaking. After hearing this sound, you will likely notice one or more of the following symptoms: The Door Won't Open: When you press the opener button, the door may only open a few inches and then stop. The Door Feels Heavy: If you disengage the opener (using the red emergency cord) and try to lift the door manually, it will feel incredibly heavy. A 500-pound door is easily lifted by hand when the springs are working, but it is nearly impossible to lift when they are broken. Visible Gap: You can often see the break. Look at the torsion springs, which are the large, heavy coils on the metal bar directly above your closed garage door. A broken spring will have a visible 2-3 inch gap in the coils where it has snapped.

This is the most common question we get, and in nine out of ten cases, the problem is a broken spring, not the opener. This is a common misconception. The device on your ceiling is a garage door "opener," but it does not do the heavy lifting. Its real job is to simply guide the door up and down. The actual power to lift the 300-800 pound door comes from the torsion springs. These springs are wound under extreme tension to perfectly counterbalance the door's weight. When a spring breaks, the opener is suddenly trying to lift the entire dead weight of the door, a job it was never designed for. The opener's safety mechanism rightly detects this "obstruction" (the unmanageable weight) and stops, which is why the door only moves a few inches.

The decision to repair or replace depends on three factors: age, safety, and the cost-effectiveness of the repair. We generally recommend repairing your garage door if: It is relatively new (less than 15 years old). The damage is minor, such as a single dented or cracked panel. It has simple mechanical issues, like worn-out rollers, misaligned tracks, or a faulty safety sensor. The opener is unresponsive, as it may just need reprogramming or a simple part replacement. We generally recommend replacing your garage door if: It is over 15 years old. Parts for older doors can be hard to find, making repairs more expensive than a replacement. It has extensive structural damage, such as multiple warped panels, significant rust, or a failing frame. It requires frequent, recurring repairs. In this case, a new door is more cost-effective in the long run. It is an outdated model that lacks modern safety features or insulation, which can improve your home's security and energy efficiency.

While the final cost depends on the specific problem, a typical garage door repair in Arizona generally costs between $160 and $380. A basic repair (like fixing a roller or cable) is typically in the $98 to $300 range. The most common repair, a torsion spring replacement, usually costs between $150 and $350. A complex repair (like replacing an opener or a major component) can range from $300 to $860. Replacing a single garage door panel can cost up to $1,000, depending on the door's material and style. We provide a detailed cost breakdown for your specific city in our Arizona Cost Guide. We will also provide a firm, upfront estimate before any work begins.

We recommend a professional garage door tune-up once per year. This is the single most effective way to prevent costly, unexpected breakdowns and save money in the long run. Think of it as a small investment for a large return. Over 65% of homeowners who neglect regular maintenance end up paying significantly more for emergency repairs, with a single incident costing between $150 and $350. An annual tune-up, which can cost as little as $100, allows our technician to perform a full safety inspection and preventive service. This includes: Lubricating all moving parts (hinges, rollers) to reduce friction. Checking and aligning the safety sensors. Adjusting the spring tension to ensure the door is balanced. Tightening all nuts and bolts, which can loosen from vibration. This simple service prevents the friction and wear-and-tear that lead to broken springs, frayed cables, and burned-out openers. It extends the life of your door by years, saving you from a premature and expensive $4,000+ replacement.

This is our most common service call in the Gilbert metro area during the summer. The problem is almost certainly your photo-eye safety sensors. These sensors are the two small "boxes" located about 6 inches off the ground on either side of your garage door track. One sensor (the "sender") shoots an invisible infrared beam to the other (the "receiver"). If anything breaks this beam, the opener assumes there is an obstruction and, for safety, reverses the door, preventing it from closing. In the late afternoon, the low-angle Arizona sun can shine directly into the "receiver" sensor's lens. The sensor's electronics are overwhelmed by this intense infrared light, interpreting it as an obstruction. As a safety precaution, it stops the door from closing. You can confirm this is the issue if your door closes perfectly in the morning but refuses in the afternoon, and the light on your garage door opener motor is flashing (usually 10 times).

If your sensors are being blinded by the sun, you can try a few solutions. First, always start by wiping the lenses with a soft cloth. Dirt or dust can make the problem worse. Also, check to make sure the sensors are aligned and their indicator lights are solid (not blinking). If they are clean and aligned, you can try these two fixes: 1. Swap the Sensors: The "sender" and "receiver" are often interchangeable. Try swapping their positions on the track (moving the left one to the right, and the right one to the left). If the "receiver" is now on the shaded side, this often solves the problem permanently. 2. Create a Sun Shield: For a simple, immediate fix, you can block the sun from hitting the lens. Taping an empty toilet paper tube or a small piece of cardboard around the sensor to create a "hood" is a common temporary solution. If you are still having trouble, call us. We can install professional, heat-resistant sun shields that provide a permanent and secure solution.

Your opener motor most likely overheated. This is a common and confusing issue in cities like Gilbert, where an attached garage can reach 120°F to 140°F in the summer. Most modern garage door openers have a built-in safety feature called a thermal overload switch. If the motor gets too hot—either from the extreme ambient temperature in the garage or from being used frequently in a short period (e.g., multiple family members leaving)—this switch will automatically shut the opener down to prevent the motor from burning out. The opener will then be completely unresponsive. After it has had time to cool down, (usually 20-30 minutes), it will function normally again. To prevent this, try to limit opening and closing the door during peak heat hours (2-5 PM). If this happens frequently, it may be a sign your opener is old, underpowered for your door, or in need of service.

This is a serious electrical emergency. UNPLUG THE OPENER IMMEDIATELY. A smoking opener is not the same as the temporary overheating described in the previous question. Smoke almost always indicates a critical component failure, most likely a blown or malfunctioning starting capacitor. The capacitor is a component that stores a large charge of energy to provide the "torque" needed to get the motor started. If this part fails, it can overheat and smoke. Do not attempt to use the door. Pull the red emergency release cord to operate the door manually only if it is safe to do so (i.e., if the springs are not broken) and call us immediately for an emergency repair.

This is a classic problem after one of our monsoon dust storms (or "haboobs"). The fine, powdery dust gets into everything, including your garage. This fine grit and debris build up in your garage door's tracks and coat the rollers, hinges, and springs. This grit acts like sandpaper, creating immense friction where there should be smooth movement. This is what causes the loud grinding or squeaking noises and the jerky, shuttering motion as the door struggles to move. The solution is to have the tracks and all components thoroughly cleaned. Afterward, the rollers, hinges, and springs must be lubricated with a high-quality, silicone-based lubricant that will not attract more dust.

Yes, for an Arizona home, an insulated garage door is one of the best home improvement investments you can make. People are often shocked to learn that their garage, especially in west-facing homes, can reach 140 degrees in the summer. An insulated door, which has a core of polystyrene or polyurethane foam, can keep the garage 10 to 20 degrees cooler. This has three major benefits: 1. It Protects Your Property: A cooler garage protects your car's battery and interior, as well as any items you have in storage. 2. It Saves Your Opener: It lowers the ambient temperature, which helps prevent your garage door opener motor from overheating and failing. 3. It Lowers Your A/C Bill: This is the most important benefit. If your garage is attached to your home, that 140-degree garage is acting like a giant radiator, transferring heat into your living spaces. An insulated door creates a thermal barrier, reducing that heat transfer and allowing your home's A/C system to work less, saving you money on your energy bills.

The intense Gilbert-area heat doesn't just cause one problem; it creates a "cascade" of failures, where each problem makes the others worse. Here is how the system breaks down in extreme heat: 1. Metals Expand: The first thing that happens is that all the metal components—the tracks, springs, and even the door panels themselves—expand in the 120°F+ heat. This expansion can cause warping and slight misalignment. 2. Friction Increases: This misalignment, combined with the fact that lubricants "burn off" or dry out faster in the heat, creates massive friction. The door starts to bind and drag in the tracks. 3. Opener Overheats: Your opener motor, which is already hot from the ambient air, now has to work much harder to pull the door against all this new friction. This strain is what causes the motor to overheat and trigger its thermal shutdown, leaving you stranded. 4. Seals Fail: At the same time, the rubber and vinyl weather stripping at the bottom of your door are being baked by the sun. They dry out, crack, crack, and peel. This lets in more hot air, dust, and pests, which only accelerates the other problems. 5. Sensors Fail: Finally, as a separate issue, the low-angle sun blinds the photo-eye sensors, preventing the door from closing. In short, the heat attacks every component of your garage door system simultaneously, which is why preventive maintenance and insulated doors are so critical in Arizona.

It depends on the scope of the work. The Gilbert Planning & Development Department provides clear guidelines. No Permit Required: A simple repair, or installing low-voltage wiring for an existing garage door opener, is exempt from permits. Permit Required: A permit is required for a full new door installation, any project that involves converting a garage or carport, or any new electrical work, such as adding a new 120V circuit for an opener. Any work involving gas lines, such as for a garage heater, or moving structural walls also requires a permit. We are fully licensed (ROC 342740) and will assess your specific project to handle all permits required by the Town of Gilbert.